The role of textile designers in change
The textile and fashion industry has been recognised for its high environmental impact and the EU is working on new legal requirements to make the industry more sustainable. New directives and laws are expected to be implemented on an ongoing basis as we approach 2030. One change that is expected is that the garments will receive digital product passports with information on manufacturing processes and recyclability, but also with information on the possibility of repair. Other changes could include circular business models, new ways of recycling and the fact that a greater share of production will be in Europe. At the same time, a digitalization of the industry is underway and both 3D technology and AI are having an impact. On the occasion of this gathering XPlot experts for a discussion.
Among other things, the debate focused on how the participants believe that the role of the designer will change, from color and shape to also be about sustainability, digital tools and recycling.
- The designer of the future will need to have a comprehensive understanding, says Ellen Hallström, furniture designer and Master student at the Industrial Design Program, Lund University. In my role as a furniture designer, I work like the spider in the web and by being an expert at finding things out.
Blenda Averfalk, fashion designer and founder of SyncMode Studios, even she saw that the designer could be the interconnector leading the process:
- There are many parts that I can't and where I need to build networks with people in other industries to be able to connect and understand. You can't learn everything, you have to find others who have the knowledge.
In the future, clothes can be supplied with digital product passports with information on production and recycling, among other things.
- I think a digital product passport will help the industry a lot. It's something that goes with it all the way and communicates what it is we have to work with. This can help designers choose raw materials that are truly sustainable,” says Edvin Bågenholm-Ruuth, PhD student in chemical engineering from Lund University.
If more clothes are produced on site in Europe instead of in Asia, it could also affect the designer's work.
- If you pick the production to Europe, it also means that the designer will have a closer contact with the production, points out Blenda Averfalk. It can be useful, for example, to know if I can add a seam or do something else to bring down the fabric spillage.
A new role may also bring changes to the education system.
- I think you have to help people understand what a designer does, says Ellen Hallström. You can't get caught up in the fact that it should be people who can draw or want to work with color. I think that more people who apply to design schools could be a bit “crazy” interdisciplinary types who can find very right in the design role.
In order for the industry to become more sustainable, several highlighted that consumer behaviour also needs to change.
- There needs to be a change in society and behaviour, says Edvin Bågenholm-Ruuth. We need to get back to a point where we understand the value of clothes. At the same time, we need to design to make the clothes last longer.
The role of the designer is also influenced by the industry's digitization and new opportunities with 3D technology and AI.
- I think we need to review what the product development process looks like so that we start the design by making the garments in 3D, says Blenda Averfalk. Previously, 3D was primarily used to overhaul fit and detail. The possibility of digital garments not only saves money, but also opens up a market where you can make money making digital garments for sale.
An industry in transition also brings opportunities.
- We see that there are great opportunities for new types of work and ideas, says Annelie Rådhall, business developer at Borås INK and program manager for NEST. We business developers are supposed to help find the new ideas, but also with getting the idea creators to take the plunge. We can connect them to companies, brands and producers. Companies need skills to help them on their journey with the new regulatory requirements, and we see that companies are now more willing than ever to bring in expertise and innovation from outside.
NEST is an initiative to transform the textile and fashion industries. NEST is created by the four incubators Borås INK, Expression, The Sting and XPlot, which with specialist areas ranging from textile to tech stand ready to support entrepreneurs in their development from business concept to growth company. In February 2024, XPlot and NEST organized a discussion about sustainability in fashion and about the new demands placed on the design and designers of the future, with Future by Lund as one of the hosts and with Lars Mattiasson from XPlot as moderator. The podcast can also be listened to afterwards, including via NextSweden Page.
